My first visit to the hammam

I have read a couple of articles in books and on the Internet re the Hammam. There is a book by Pamela Windo called Zora's Ladder, the first chapter is called An Afternoon in the Hammam and she makes it sound such a great experience. It is available from most books shops for about £6

Last Easter when we were over in our apartment, I was talking with the life-guard about the Hammam, is there was one in M'Diq? Will I be able to use it? Can I get a massage there? Etc. It turns out there are a couple of Hammams in M'Diq, there is no reason why I couldn't use them and a massage shouldn't be a problem

During the summer, when we were back over in our apartment I found out where one of the Hammams are and thought I would give it a go. I got up early the next morning packed my towel and trunks and set off all excited about my first Hammam experience. I got there about 10 o'clock, knocked on the little counter window for service when a lady appeared and started shouting and pointing me out of the way. There was a local man hanging about outside and being aware that there are both men and womens Hammams I tried to ask him where the mens one was. I think he understood what I was trying to ask, the problem was I didn't have a clue what he was saying to me. There is a chemist next door so I thought I would ask in there. Luckily enough for me, when I asked the chemist if he spoke English there was two french ladies in there who straight away offered to translate for me. I explained that I was looking for the Hammam and if they could speak with the lady and find out where I could go, etc. It turned out that it is ladies time during the day and the men’s time starts at 7 o'clock. So I had to go back later - no problem, I went back to the pool to rejoin family for rest of day. Some of our friends in our complex were aware where I had been and where waiting to find out about it and did I survive it, etc

Determined to go through with it, I went back later that evening. I got to M'Diq, went up to the Hammam and had a cup of mint tea with the kif smoking locals in the small street cafe just around the corner. Then all keen and excited off to the Hammam I went. I don't think many foreigners have been there before as the man behind the counter was a little shocked that a tourist was trying to get in. I got the message through to him that I did want to come in and that would also like a massage. I got changed into my trunks and went through

The first room (from the changing room) was very warm, there was about half a dozen men with their buckets of hot and cold water. They were washing themselves down and tipping the buckets water over themselves then soaping up again to have another wash. From this room you go through to the main steam room. Again there was about half a dozen men washing themselves down or just enjoying the effects of the steam room. I got myself a couple of buckets of water, sat down against the wall and let the steam do it's work. As I had asked for a massage when I first came in, I was wondering when and where this was going to happen. No rush, I was in both holiday and Moroccan mode. Time didn't matter. After about 15 minutes of me steaming down and rinsing myself with the hot and then cold water, one of the men who was in the steam room for what must have been all evening tried to signal to me if I wanted washing down. Or that's what I thought he was trying to say. It turned out that he was the person who does the massages. How he knew that I wanted one and was next in line I will never know. Still he knew. Just at that time there was another chap who came into the steam room who could speak some English. He could see that there were some communication issues and translated for me

It was time for the massage. I thought I would be lead to another room where there would be a table to lay on. No, the floor in the steam room was washed down by way of a couple of buckets of hot water being quickly swished over. I was then told to lie down there. The massage started of on my back with what seemed like massive pressure being applied. My arms were pulled about, then my legs. The bloke carrying it out was here and there rubbing/pulling and pushing for what seemed like all over the place. At one stage I am sure he was standing on my backside and then from behind he put his arms through the top of my arms so his hands joined across my chest, he then pulled up and nearly bent me backwards. He then turned me over and started on my front. I didn't know I could makes so many moans and groans. It was painfull but nice with it

My translator friend then called over and basicaly said it was time for a short break. The massage man dissappered for a while leaving me to recover and get myself back together. During this time I must have drank a bucket of cold water and used many more to just pour over myself. I think every pore in my body was sweating

After about ten minutes or so the massager came back into the steam room. We sat together and with our translator made petty conversation. Was I OK? Is it good, Do I like Morocco, etc. I think the staff were happy to have a tourist/foreigner use their facilities

He then asked for my mitt. These are like a soft sandpaper type material. They are used to clean off dead skin and exfoliate. I was back lying on the floor while the massager cleaned me down from head to foot. Good job I had gone past the red sore skin stage during my sunbathing sessions. My skin felt like it was on fire after he had finished. In a nice clean good way if that makes any sense!

All in all I was in the Hammam for about an hour. I was still sweating for about half an hour after! It was a really good experience and I am looking forward to making this a regular thing

To use the steam room only it cost 15 Dirhams (less than £1) and the massage and scrub down was another 40 Dirhams (less than £3)

The hammam is located just behind the Shell petrol station at the end of the main road in M'diq

Posted by Pauls, a member at www.moroccanstar.co.uk